A Town Named Progress in Regress
Ever since soldiers of the Mexican army were stationed at the border bridge of Nuevo Progreso, Tamaulipas, Mexico two years ago, there have been countless rumors and speculation as to why this peaceful tourist town is under heavy observance by the Mexican government. American tourists do not know what to make of these soldiers. Are they here to protect or to endanger? Will they protect American citizens or just the town natives? Is there a reason to be afraid to enter this border town? Are they involved with the infamous Mexican drug cartels? With so many unanswered questions, only one thing remains certain: The economy of this once thriving tourist town has plummeted drastically with the arrival of these soldiers.
Nuevo Progreso is a colorful Mexican tourist destination. Unlike most border towns, El Centro, or the main shopping street, is only a few blocks and people can walk everywhere. This border town also lacks a "Red Zone"-a zone indicating danger- making this town family friendly and for the most part, extremely safe. There is no daily count of missing women or alarmingly high casualties as there is in other Mexican border cities. Only one shooting has ever occurred here on the main street, yet people associate the town with the daily shootings that happen in the nearby cities of Rio Bravo and Reynosa (which are both about an hour away) with Nuevo Progreso.
Nuevo Progreso's streets were once filled with Winter-Texan tourists and American citizens from the neighboring border cities to the point where it was impossible to get through a sidewalk. However, today Nuevo Progreso resembles a ghost town. Shops remain empty for days at a time, street vendors do not cheerily yell out prices anymore, and there is more than enough walking space.
It does not help that the soldiers stand with weapons in hand, as if ready to attack, on the entrance block of Nuevo Progreso. Although they hardly speak to the tourists or natives, they are required to do random car checks, which sometimes frightens or confuses people.
One of the main sources of tourist attraction was the nightlife that Nuevo Progreso provided. Alvaro Pulido, previous owner of Dania's Disco Bar, once made $800 a night just on cover charges, excluding the drinks he sold per night. He also charged cover entrances only for the males. The streets thrived with people the same by night as they did by day, and the economy prospered on the young people who crossed the border from the United States every night for a good time.
Today Pulido owns Ground Zero Bar and has been forced to shut down his three other locations. There is no more nightlife, and just enough people to get by during the day.
Pedro Vega, a 21-year-old resident of the city of Weslaco, Texas, which borders with Nuevo Progreso, was once a frequent visitor of Dania's Disco Bar and other nightlife locations. "I used to go to Progreso to party every single weekend. Now I haven't gone in a few months. It's not as packed as it once was because no one goes anymore. I'm scared of the soldiers and the shootings that go on down there. I feel like the cartel is going to get me," says the Weslaco resident.
Pedro's fear is commonly shared among residents of the neighboring border towns. According to Alvaro Pulido, these fears do not have a basis to support them. "These soldiers are here to protect us from the drug cartels, and they are doing an amazing job. People think that we are the only tourist town who has to endure this because they do not keep themselves informed. Every country from Mexico to Venezuela to Spain has to deal with drug cartels, and the United States is the No. 1 consumer of those drugs. Instead of embracing the protective army, people fear them and create stories for their entertainment. They do not see that their words are hurting entire businesses," says the 44-year-old entrepreneur.
There are both good and bad aspects to having these soldiers stand vigilant. The Mexican army has hurt the economy of Nuevo Progreso in more than one way. In hopes of protecting the natives and local business owners from the drug cartels, about a year and a half ago the army ordered all bars to close at 10 p.m. Nuevo Progreso is heavily populated with bars who had to shut down early. Hours of operation are currently back to normal and bars are able to stay open as long as they please, but the damage has been done and the nights remain empty of young consumers.
While some business owners like Alvaro have seen and survived the worst of Progreso's struggling economy, others are doing their best to keep pushing forward as well.
Sara Hernandez is a 42-year-old owner of three hair and nail salons located throughout Nuevo Progreso. Although she has not had to shut any down, business has declined dramatically. However, she tries to see the light in the situation. "I feel that we will not run out of business because women are so aware of their looks. It does not matter if the economy is completely down the drain, a woman just has to have her hair and nails done to keep appearances," she says.
As her laugh fades, she says on a serious note that the salons have gone from being full every day to having one packed weekend a month. "I had to start working at an American nail salon across the border aside from keeping up with these three, just in case anything happens. I do not want my kids to have to suffer if things keep getting worse in this town," says the mother of two.
Hernandez is not the only one who has had to migrate her business to the United States. Antonia Castillo, who owns Galerias, a curios and liquor store, has been forced to run her business from across the border. "After the shooting and all the talk of drug cartels, I became fearful for my life. They say if you do not mess with the cartels, they will not get involved with you. I would not like to risk it anyway. And I do not know how people can be expected to shop at my store when even I am deathly afraid to go in," she says. "It is like having to abandon a child. You spend all your life investing in a business only to have it taken away out of pure evil."
At the rate of economic decline that this border town is going, it is hard for people to remain hopeful. However, Pulido keeps an optimistic outlook. "Last year the economic decline was at 70 percent for Nuevo Progreso, and this year it is at a 40 percent." Although it may seem like a vague light in the distance, these entrepreneurs are all hoping to return to their normal way of life and business.
"La vida tiene que seguir," says Alvaro. Life must go on.


